America’s got this place called Hawaii, perhaps you’ve heard of it? A paradise disconnected from mainland America where people can go to savour beaches, volcanoes, mountains, etc. Well mainland Korea has there own Hawaiian haven and it’s called Jeju. It’s a cozy, edenic island south of the rest of Korea, and on a long weekend in June it’s more difficult to get to than it was backstage at a 1991 Guns N Roses concert.
I had shown some interest in travelling here about 6 weeks prior to the June 6th weekend, only to be denied faster than I would be at a bar when accosting a fair beauty. At this point, I became a little disheartened and accepted that I wouldn’t be able to visit Jeju during my one-year tenure in Korea. This all changed when one of my good and dear Korean friends came over and noticed I had bought a bicycle to help with my ankle rehabilitation. The once dull and banal life he averred I was living while crippled soon became a thing of the past and he jumped at the chance to cycle around this coveted island.
I told him that I would love to ride the 275 km loop, but that getting there would be impossible. Little did I know that Ron, my Korean businessman amigo, has a good connection; and I don’t mean to the Internet. He knows a guy who knows a guy, who knows a ... (actually that’s it, he knows a guy who knows a guy) and this second guy just happens to be the head of the public ferry company that sails to Jeju. So we headed out on Thursday night at 11:57, transferred to another bus at 3:45 am, waited for the 10:00 am boat and got to Jeju around 1:00.
Before boarding the ferry Ron suggested we have a hearty breakfast to fuel us for our upcoming expedition. I agreed and conjured up this lovely image of bacon, eggs, toast and maybe even some flapjacks. Heck, I would have settled for some peameal and an artichoke souffle. Instead, as I would experience all weekend long, I got the true Korea experience: seared fish, sticky rice, spicy kelp, pickled turnip, softshell crab and a cold vinegared cucumber soup to name a few. Keep in mind it was 7:00 am in the morning. I dare you to find fiery, brined algae at sunrise in North America.
Our 21 dish breakfast
This was somewhat of a demanding bike trip, as we were a little pressed for time, and we both wanted to enjoy some of the sights, sounds and smells of the island, so I was basically coerced into using the proper equipment. Chuck let me borrow his $3000 road bike that he brought from back home, and Ron lent me a pair of bicycle shorts. For those of you who have never worn a pair of bicycle shorts, I’ll try and convey the experience. It’s like wearing a pair of spandex shorts with a built in maxi-pad. Sadly, I am not talking about these modern, ultra-thin sanitary napkins with wings, dry-weave, side-impact beams and optional keyless remote entry. It’s much more akin to a 1960s industrial menstrual towel. Also, these shorts don’t leave much to the imagination for anyone looking in the crotchular region, so I always felt a little awkward when walking around(especially in an Asian country). In retrospect I probably spent 87% of my time thoroughly enjoying everything I saw; the other 13% of my time was occupied adjusting myself.
These polyester pants were the bane of my cycling experience...and your visual experience.
Ron was an incredible host, great company and a thorough tour guide. I was treated to some of the finest seafood and the most secret nooks the island has to offer. Most of our day was spent riding along a wandering coastal road. Occasionally we rode through a densely touristy part of town, did some sightseeing (only we did it like tourists on crack) and then retreated to the congenial seaside path again. Snacks and breaks were usually accompanied by a bottle of beer and a plate of raw marine products, such as abalone, cockles and urchins. All of which were served with a heaping plate of seaweed. If you’re curious as to what any of this stuff tastes like, I suggest you go to the nearest ocean, wait for the tide to ebb, find some of that green guck that is caked onto the rocks and lap that sunsoaked algae like a dog drinking water on a hot day. I assume the flavour must be similar, although with enough hot sauce anything is edible.
Ron’s great friendship, connections and astute Koreaness, all made for an incredibly wonderful long weekend filled with many valuable and memorable Korean experiences.
Accostingly,
Yubbo
No comments:
Post a Comment